Just like the other guys mentioned increase the revs when doing the headlight check and make sure of the reflector on the back and check all the bulbs. Also the check the locking system for the handlebars and that your horn is working.
My bike failed on the headlight but I am wondering if I had it in the correct position on the machine. There was a white line on a hydraulic platform where I thought the front wheel was suppose to be and then it angles forward automatically when the test is about to start. I didn't let the bike roll forward to the bottom of the incline so the bike would have been slightly too high during the test.
Before I took it the second time the Red Baron mechanic in front of me started with his bike at the furthermost forward point of the hydraulic plate so once the plate inclined the wheel was already at the lowest point and in the correct position.
Best advice I can give is watch a couple of people do the inspection first before you do it.
I don't know if the system is the same where you are doing the test but there are bars/buttons on the floor on your left hand side which you have to press with you foot to start each part of the test.
Also check with the staff which button you have to press at the start of the test as there are different buttons to push if your are doing a complete test or just redoing the lights etc.
Also ask them which button to press on the machine for the emissions test.
I didn't have any real help from the staff but figured it out by watching the guy in front. I wished I had watch a few more times beforehand just to make sure.
Perhaps one more thing is check is that the headlight bulb is a standard bulb. One of the guys in front who I was getting advice from had his bike fail twice on the headlight apparently because of the color of his bulb. He had a blue tint to his bulb so went away to find a standard color bulb.
I was told you have 3 chances to pass but after that you have to pay the inspection fee again.
Good Luck!
Great info. In doing it here in Kyoto so next month when I do it here, I'll post further info.
Getting to the Summit is Optional, Returning home is mandatory
Life begins at 155mph
I was told by my KTM shop that Yokohama is much easier to pass the shaken they seem more relaxed. But the headlight needs to be 4000 even when revving my KTM was 1800 But the shop as mentioned had the "special" headlight clean and new and it seemed to pass was this because of Yokohama or not no idea but seems like a good location to get the shaken done on a potentially problem bike.
Hello, just finnished doing my shaken in Kyoto. Now understanding all prefixture sate probably a bit different. I got to tell you it was a breeze and cheap. My CBR600rr now granted I did need to change back to the stock exaust if I wanted to pass which isn't difficult just a couple hours.
So on to the test all fees papers included came to right at ¥20,000.
People at the counter and the test were very helpful.. Told me which buttons to push when to do what. In and out in 35 minutes passed and ready for another 2 years.
Tomorrow, other exaust back on👍
Getting to the Summit is Optional, Returning home is mandatory
Life begins at 155mph
Hello,
I will go for my shaken next week, and all I read so far is qui reassuring !
Only 1 question remaining is about the documents to bring. I understood you need this 3 :
- Jibaiseki
- Tax declaration (or nozeshomeisho in my case since I didn't own the bike last year)
- Previous shaken certificate
I have read on the internet that you also need to bring a maintenance check list, but looks like nobody here is talking about it..
So for the ones who passed the user shaken recently in Tokyo, could you please advise if I need this or not (and if yes, where I can find the check list..)
Thanks !
Did my shakken today. No big deal at all. My wife and I went and she dealt with the paperwork. It's a 2010 Ktm 450 six days. I have aftermarket LED blinkers on the front and an aftermarket rally fairing and light setup. He looked over everything and did a double take to measure the length of the turn signals. Apparently they were ok. I also s swapped my stock rear end parts back (fender, lights, plate holder). The bike rollers didn't like something about my bike so they tested the brakes on the car rollers instead. No problems. They didn't test the exhaust sound that I saw. It's a stock can and header with the little reg plate on it. Didn't care about the rally fairing block most of the signals. Didn't care about the rigid industry headlight...just that they were aimed and with the power range. We stopped by one of the pretest centers nearby to have the lights checked. He couldn't figure out how to adjust the lights left and right...I said just grab the rig and pull. Sure enough dead center.
The emission reader didn't like my CO level. I was .2 off. Went to the pretest center again and asked the bike guy what to do. He stuck a sniffer in and dropped the idle from 1800 to 1300 then everything was fine. Barely ran and a bitch to start...but it was fine. Passed on round two.
Went back and handed over our buerecratic fodder and we were all done. It was about 19,000 all in including the pretest and adjustment.
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Nice work! 😉👍